By Bev
Eckman-Onyskow
For the Daily News
Come
to the fair, and bring your gardening questions with you!
That's what a lot of area residents did at the county
fair last month, stopping by the Otero County Master Gardener Association
booth.
Master Gardeners were staffing it, several at a time,
during fair hours.
The most frequently asked question they got was,
"When will the next Master Gardener basic training classes start?"
Answer: The exact times and days of the week
and tuition have not been set, but a 12-week class will start in September
2008. The previous classes ran in the spring, so the decision was made
to switch to fall so that other people might be able to fit it into their
schedules.
President Connie Klofonda reported that so far,
"seven people applied for the class through the Web site, and nine at the
fair."
The Web site is: www.oteromastergardeners.com.
If you do not have a home computer, the Alamogordo Public Library provides
free computer access for library patrons. Or stop in at the Otero County
Extension Office on the fairgrounds, and leave your contact information.
Q. How do you get rid of powdery mildew?
A. First, powdery mildew is one of the most
widespread plant diseases, and is particularly prevalent and severe here in
the hot, dry Southwest. It's easy to identify because it produces
patches of white or grayish talcum-powder-like growth, which gave the disease
its name.
It affects all kinds of plants, from grasses to
flowers and vegetables to trees. We have it on the lilacs in our
backyard, and are spraying them as indicated below.
Dr. Curtis Smith, horticultural specialist for the
New Mexico State University Extension, commented, "If it's spring,
there's powdery mildew in New Mexico."
Some suggestions, from various sources: Water
in the morning so the plant can dry out during the day. Avoid overhead
watering to help reduce the relative humidity. Prune overcrowded plants
to increase air circulation, which also helps reduce relative humidity and
infection.
Apply a fungicide that says on its label that it will
work on powdery mildew. Apply at 7-14 day intervals to provide
continuous protection throughout the growing season. READ THE LABEL
CAREFULLY.
Avoid late-summer applications of nitrogen fertilizer
to limit the production of succulent tissue, which is more susceptible to
infection.
It will be fall in a few weeks, and that's the time to remove and destroy
infected plant material as well as infected vegetables and other annuals to
decrease the ability of the fungus to survive the winter. Do not, repeat
do not compost infected plant material.
Q. Where do I find wildflower seed?
A. Plants of the Southwest near Albuquerque.
"We carry a lot of wildflower seed mixes. In your area, I'd suggest
the high-desert wildflower seed mix," said Plants of the Southwest's
manager Luis Guzman (no relation to the Guzman's Greenhouses of Las Cruces
mentioned below).
"Our catalogue is available at the best price
ever--it's free."
The high-desert mix, 3,000-6,000 feet, contains
purple aster, plains coreopsis, desert marigold, Mexican evening primrose,
Mexican hat, yellow prairie coneflower, firewheel, Rocky Mountain Bee Plant,
blue flax, pink wild snapdragon, gold poppy, blanketflower, Desert 4 o'clock,
and California bluebells, according to Susan Westbrook in the Plants of the
Southwest mail order office in Santa Fe.
"It's predominantly perennials, but the annuals
will re-seed themselves," she said.
Call (800) 788-7333 for a catalogue. You can
also access the Web site: www.plantsofthesouthwest.com.
Q. Where can I buy ocotillo?
A. First, ocotillo is a hardy desert plant well
suited to this region. It grows from the Sonoran and Chihuahuan
deserts in Southeast California to west Texas and south into Mexico, generally
on open desert slopes below 5,000 feet.
It can grow as high as 20 feet, and a mature ocotillo
can have as many as 75 canes, so consider that when you plan a planting area.
It could be used as living fence when planted in rows.
"I have friends in Tucson who made a fence just
sticking the canes in the ground and watering them--they propagate like
crazy," said Master Gardener Bob Skaar.
Ocotillo will bloom annually, with red flowers up to
an inch long in clusters, March through June or later, depending on rainfall.
"It's low maintenance, it's a native plant, it's very
hardy, it will survive in the worst droughts and come back," said Skaar.
"They are easily propagated--just break off a
piece and stick it in the ground, and it will grow.
"And it has beautiful flowers and attracts hummingbirds."
Find ocotillo at Guzman's Greenhouse, 655 E.
University, Las Cruces. (505) 523-1520. "We have about a
half-dozen left, but we'll be getting more in," said Jessica Reyes by
telephone. "The range from 4 feet to 5 or 6 feet tall, and from
$39.99 to $49.99."
And speaking of Guzman's, a contingent of Master
Gardeners trekked to Estancia to visit McLain Greenhouses last week. It is a
commercial operation, specializing in large container gardens.
McLain's had more than 150 different
container gardens in its 2007 Container Garden Trials, ranging from roses,
penstemon, dahlias and petunias to ornamental grasses.
While McLain Greenhouses is not open to the public and does
not sell retail, the good news is that McLain's supplies Guzman's Greenhouse
in Las Cruces.
McLain Greenhouses literature says, "Each year,
every horticultural company introduces new and improved plant varieties.
It is difficult to know which materials will be successful in your customer's
garden.
"This is the purpose of our container garden
trials: to evaluate the performance of annual and perennial flower cultivars
under out unique New Mexico environmental conditions and deliver to you, our
(commercial) customer, the highest quality of plant material.
"Our growing conditions are characterized by
high altitude, intense solar radiation, low humidity, drying winds, large
fluctuations between day and night temperatures, and our season-long need for
irrigation.
Plants are evaluated based on plant vigor,
uniformity, floriferousness (ability to bear flowers) and tolerance to
environmental stress."
Q. How do I take care of indoor cacti?
A. Good question. I killed a lovely cactus dish
garden by over-watering. I ordered another, and this time I read the
directions--and it's thriving. The cacti are in a shallow terra cotta
dish. I put that dish in one slightly larger, and water into it.
Water is absorbed through the terra cotta. I water every five weeks, not
the three-times-a-week that killed its predecessor.
Moral: Read the directions and the labels.
For large floor-model cacti, "it depends on the
size, but generally water every 20-25 days," said Gary Guzman. He's
the owner of Color Your World, 540 N. Telshor in Las Cruces, (505) 521-0496
for directions.
He suggests using a cactus-mix fertilizer for the
succulents, and said he has pencil cactus, 4 feet and taller, as well as other
varieties, in stock.
Skaar is a fan of a Moisture Meter, as I am. It is a gauge that
registers dry though moist to wet. Skaar uses it to determine when to
water his ocotillos. One cannot tell by looking at the surface of the
ground, or of dirt in a container, whether a plant's roots need watering.
More container plants are killed by over-watering than by drying out.
The Moisture Meter has a metal probe and a gauge that
registers dry, moist or wet. It is available in garden supply
departments and catalogues.
Q. When should I transplant trees?
A. "Only in the fall and early
spring, because plants can't handle the heat," said Klofonda.
"Don't put them in the ground until October."
Q. I have ants on my kitchen counters, and
don't know why. How do I get rid of them?
A. If they are in the house, they are
probably the ones called "sugar ants." Keep the counters
clean. There are ant baits, which sometimes work.
There are also ant-killer sprays; again, read the
label, particularly if there are children and pets in the area.
Some sprays say they are non-toxic; if you are
unsure, there's usually an 800 number on the label to call. That's what
I did when I got tired of killing ants a few dozen at a time. I was
reassured to learn that the product was non-toxic and could be used safely on
kitchen counters.
One area native swears by using boric acid, sprinkled
on the backs of the counters, to kill both ants and roaches. Boric acid
is a primary ingredient in ant and roach killers.
Q. How do I propagate prickly pear cactus?
A. "This will work for any cactus, and now
is a good time to do it," Klofonda said. "Pick off a piece at
a joint. Use tongs to handle it. Let it dry for two days, then put
it in a hole and put dirt around it so that it stands up. Water it
gently, don't over-water or it will rot. Bob Skaar started ocotillos
like that. (See above)."
Q. Why are Mexican elder / ash tree leaves
turning brown?
A. "They do that in the summer, they don't
like it here," Klofonda said. "They green up in the fall.
Mexican elder stays green all winter; they are the opposite of deciduous
trees."
(Deciduous trees are those that bud out in the
spring, then leaf out, then drop their leaves in the fall / winter.)
Overall, Klofonda said, "It was a great county
fair. The weather cooperated, and the Master Gardeners enjoyed visiting
and talking with everyone."
In addition to the Master Gardener Web site,
information is available on the Master Gardener hotline from 8 a.m.-noon, and
1-5 p.m. Monday through Friday, at 437-0231. Question-calls left with
the Extension office staff will be returned by a Master Gardener.
GARDENERS
MAILBAG
Here are questions I received via the Internet, from
a reader who is in the process of moving from California to a home
"between Tularosa and Alamogordo."
Q. "Do citrus trees grow here, or does it get
too cold?"
A. It gets too cold here in the winter to try to grow
citrus trees in the ground.
If the trees were in containers, they could be
brought indoors during the winter. Or put them on a patio and screen
them with a shelter during the winter. This would obviously work better
with dwarf trees and / or husky people available to move them.
Q. "I'd like to bring my lilac bush here
from California. What do you think?"
A. There is just a possibility it might work.
First, wait for relatively dry weather in the hope some dormancy will be
achieved. Then carefully dig up a good root ball, burlap it and
keep it moist in transit.
Please let me know how it works out.
Good luck!
Bev Eckman-Onyskow is an Alamogordo-based freelance writer and vice-president
of the Otero County Master Gardener Association. E-mail your gardening
questions and comments to her at beckmanonyskow@aol.com.